Draft Cycle Works

Showing posts with label Cam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cam. Show all posts

Monday, May 18, 2015

Rock Flute Specifications:

For my own notes and for those interested, here are the specs on Rock Flute.  I'll update this as things change... because they always do. For instance, the green paint in the picture is actually a brighter green than the color code listed below.  I will update the picture as soon as the bike is repainted.

Engine:
10.9 to 1 CR
1978 CB750 F bottom end
1976 K model cylinders, Decked
1976 K model Head, Stage II porting, decked by Mike Reick
                33.5 mm OS intake valves, stock exhaust valves
                Megacycle 125-75 cam, 0.005” Int/Exh tappet clearance, 105 int 104.5 exh lobe centers, no adv.
                                (More cam specs in chart below)
                Adjustable cam sprocket
                HD Valve springs and titanium keepers
                Late model cam towers with unbolted early model rocker shafts
Wiseco 836 forged piston kit
CycleX Super Rods
New primary chains installed
Reinforced valve cover with cam tower stabilizers

Transmission/Final Drive:
F model transmission, backcut with close ratio 4th and 5th gear
             Primary: 1.708:1
            1st:           2.500:1
            2nd:          1.708:1
3rd:           1.333:1
            4th:           1.133:1
5th:           0.969:1
Barnett Clutch plates and springs
Drilled clutch basket with oil grooves for added oiling
Final Drive: 17/48 2.82:1

Ignition:
Dyna 2000 ignition with 3 ohm Dyna minicoils
Total Timing Advance: 35*
Timing curve: 4 (changed 6/12/15 from 5 which may be causing low/mid stumble)
Rev limiter: 10,500 RPM
NGK DR8EA 5 kohm Resistor type spark plugs @ 0.036” (resistor plugs used to eliminate noise in digital tach and increase spark duration)

Fuel/Intake:
Ramflo Filters
Sudco VM29/CB750 Adapter boots with vacuum ports
Mikuni VM29 Smoothbore Carburetors
               Mains: 120
               Pilots: 12.5
               Air Jets: 0.9
Air Screws: 1.5 Turns
Jet Needles: #5DL31 with clip @ #5
Needle Jets: 0-6
Throttle Valves: 1.5
Float Height: 23 mm

Exhaust:
4-2, 2” long baffle with 1.25” inner diameter

Frame:
Cycle One Manufacturing rigid
2" forward
4" up
36* rake, Harley 1" neck
5" ride height
Paint: Sikkens Rally Black
Body:
Fuel Tank: 1969 Triumph Tiger Daytona 500
Rear Fender: 5" Ducktail ribbed fender, 7 Metal West
Paint: Mopar F8 Green / Nissan Obsidian Black / Ford Graphite Metallic
Seat: Satin black powder-coated Accufast seat pan with single leaf spring suspension
Suspension/Front End:
Square lef girder with Honda Rebel shocks mounted behind legs to the lower rocker studs
Wheels/Tires/Brakes:
Front Wheel:  Satin black powder-coated SOHC CB750 rim laced to a CL450 dual leading shoe brake hub
Front Tire:  Shinko 705 110/80-19
Rear Wheel:  Satin black powder-coated DOHC CB750 rim laced to a late model CB750 drum hub
Rear Tire:  Shinko 705 130/90-19
Gauges/Info Center:
Vapor Computer System
     Speedometer, Tachometer, Trip/Odometer, Top Speed, Time, Head Temperature, Shift Lights/Redline Warning
Analog Oil Pressure Gauge
Lighting:
Headlight:  Cycle Standard 4.5 inch early style headlight with high beam indicator
Taillight:  Bullet style dual filament

Oil:
Capacity: 3.5 Quarts
Mobil 1 20w-50 Full Synthetic

Fuel:
Capacity: 3.7 Gallons
Premium 91+ Octane

Curb Weight:
450 Lbs


Cam Specs
Valve Lift
Duration
Int. Open
Int. Close
Exh. Open
Exh. Close
Lobe Center
Overlap
tappet Clearance
Sealed Duration
Int.
Exh.
Int.
Exh.
BTC
ABC
BBC
ATC
Int.
Exh.
Calculated
Int.
Exh.
Calculated
Megacycle 125-75
0.400
0.375
262 @.04
257 @.04
26
56
53
24
105
104.5
50
0.005
0.005
251

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Rock Flute: Valve Train Assembly and Cam Timing

Time to wrap up the top end of the Flute.  I've already retorqued my head bolts and found true TDC.  Next I installed the cam tower pucks.  I've added some yamabond so that I can reduce the chance of developing a leak down the road.  These little pucks are what cause an old engine to weep oil from between the head fins.  Most notable on the left side of the bike since the oil will run across the fins toward the kickstand.  I also installed the guide dowels, four small orings and the oil injectors (not shown in the picture below).


I replaced my cam towers, rocker shafts, and rockers after noticing some damage.  The picture below shows damage to the cam race on one of my cam towers.  This probably happened while installing the old cam. When replacing cam towers, remember that the top shell and the main body of the tower that make the cam race are line bored and must be kept as a set.  These parts are labeled with two identical letters.  An example can be seen a few pictures below (for example, the cam race top shell is labeled FF and the right side of the cam tower is labeled FF, these parts should go together).


I went through quite a few towers to find ones that mic-ed close to the original specs.


Once the parts were cleaned, I installed them on top of the head.  Make sure that if you use a little sealant on the cam pucks that you wipe off the excess.  Any extra sealant can cause the cam tower to sit a little higher and cause more friction at the cam races.  And once you've installed the cam towers, do not lift them back up.  You will pull the pucks out of the seat and have to reinstall them.  Lay a little oil down on the races and inside the rocker shaft bores.  I'm using 30 weight since I have it on hand.


Slide the cam in from the left side, first through the chain and then through sprocket.  Be as gentle as possible with the cam and try not to rest it on the cam towers until all the races are lined up.


Next I installed my rockers with the tappets completely loose.  With a stock cam, you should be able to slide the cam in through the rockers with the tappets fully recessed into the rockers.  The lift on a stock cam is smaller than the travel of the tappets.  This is not the case on an aftermarket cam and you will need to do a bit more work to get the rockers installed.  I set my tappet clearances on cylinders 1 and 4 to .005".


Next I lined up the hash marks on the cam with the mating surface of the cam race.  The keyway faces up.  At this point, cylinder 1 should be in the overlap position between intake and exhaust.  This is a decent starting point for degreeing your cam.  Note the letters stamped on the end of the rocker tower assembly in the picture below.  These two pieces are best friends for life.

With everything bolted in place, apply oil to the small ports on top of the cam tower races, as well as the rocker oiling ports.  Give some oil on the lobes and all other areas where there is metal to metal contact.


I verified my lobe centers using the degree wheel and a dial indicator referencing the surface of the valve retainer.  I should see 105* int and 104.5* exh.  Below is my reading for the exhaust valve of cylinder 1.


Next I measured the lobe center of the intake valve on cylinder 1.  


My final readings of the lobe centers are 105* int and 105* exhaust.  I'm pleased with those results.  degreeing in your cam like this helps to eliminate the propagation of errors in machining tolerances.  It allows you to set up the cam as close to the manufacturers specifications by compensating for the modifications and characteristics of your engine.  Below is my intake reading.

 
With all of the tedious stuff out of the way, I installed the cam sprocket bolts, applied the cam chain tensioner, verified tension on the front side of the cam chain, and snugged the sprocket bolts down.  Torque to spec and use a little locktite.  It can't hurt to be thorough.


Finally, I set all my tappets at .005" clearance, installed the valve cover, and snugged the cam tower support bolts down.


She's almost complete.  Carbs, exhaust, plugs, oil, gas, and shes ready to fire.



Saturday, May 4, 2013

Single Overhead Cam

New cam showed up in the mail today. Megacycle 125-75.
Lift: .400 int .375 exh
Dur: 262 int 257 exh

Grrrr.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Speed Equipment: Taking a look at the Honda Four's Power Potential

Here is another vintage article from Richard Bean. I got this one from the SOHC4.net site and I do not know where the information originally derives from.

Mr. Beans words.

If the big Harley twins can be likened to the Chrysler engine which has dominated automobile drag racing for a decade, then the Honda 750 engine must represent the Chevy V8 of the motorcycle world. With its ability to rev clear out of sight and stay together, it cannot be overlooked as a potential winner in any form of competition. Its appeal as a street engine is as large as its hold over certain classes in both drag and road racing.

The purpose of this article is not to follow the step-by-step construction of any one engine, but to report on the state of the art and inform the engine builder as to what is available in the way of hop-up parts and techniques.

The basic engine is by itself a fine powerplant, capable of giving a good account of itself on the street. It develops considerable power and, for an engine that needs rpm to produce that power, is fairly tractable on the street even in heavy traffic. In its stock form the Honda 750 is able to turn the quarter mile in the high 12's which definitely puts it in the superbike category.

Several riders have written us complaining of the fact that the Honda is a pipey type of bike which comes on quickly at the upper limits of its rpm range, but we haven't found this to be the case. To be sure, the Honda engine doesn't develop much torque at low rpm's, like the Sportster or 74, but it is mostly a matter of getting used to holding the revs up. Another thing is that the engine exhibits very little flywheel effect and revs fall off quickly in between shifts. Again, this is a matter of getting used to the engine and carrying the shift point a little past the point of maximum torque.

For the rider who wants to get additional power out of the engine, two things are immediately apparent. One is that the stock carburetion isn't worth a damn for real high performance operation, the other is that the engine can really benefit from better exhaust.

The 28mm Keihin carb used on the stock Honda 750 is a good, reliable carburetor for a stock engine, but if internal changes are made to the engine to increase the power, the restricted airflow through the carb just about cancel out any gain. In the December issue of HOT BIKE, we ran a story about porting the head on the Honda 750. In the story we pointed out how flow bench testing showed that the stock Keihin restricted the airflow through the intake port to the point where installing a better cam or modifying the port would be almost useless. Honda Four owners are lucky, however, because there are a number of different carburetion setups which can solve the problem.

Probably the best from the standpoint of cost and ease of installation is the Mikuni. In addition to being a better flowing carburetor, the Mikuni offers a substantial number of jets, airbleed correctors, and other tuning parts to get maximum performance. The testing we did on the Honda head used four 32mm units and we feel they are about the right size for racing use, with the smaller 30mm size for street operation. Another good setup which we have seen on several bikes is the constant velocity carbs from the late Honda 450. These can often be found in wrecking yards and will do a good job. These are also a 32mm unit and need little modification to fit.

For the rider interested in maximum performance without worrying too much about the cost, Russ Collins at R.C. Competition Engineering has started production of a manifold which adapts a pair of DCOE -40 Webers to the 750. Russ also has a single Weber manifold for the Honda which is a log type in the works and we should be hearing more about it before too long. Jerry Magnuson, who designed one of the best manifolds on the market for the Weber to Sportster conversion is rumored to be working on a manifold for the Honda, so there is no scarcity of carburetion for the 750. For the all out racing effort, Yoshimura Competition in Waterford, California, sells matched sets of the 31mm GP carbs used on the Honda road racers, and Fuel Injection Engineering is putting the Hilborn injector designed for the Honda LSR bike (see page 52 of this issue), on the market for the drag racer.

Another place where the Honda has a lot going for it is in the area of exhaust systems. A number of manufacturers jumped on the bandwagon early in the game, and there are several good systems available over the counter. Because the Honda 750 is a four cylinder engine, a lot of hard earned design work done by the automotive exhaust system builders can be applied to the Honda in the form of collectors. Basically, the collector uses the pulse from an adjacent cylinder to lower the pressure in side the exhaust, creating a slight scavenging effect. By arranging the exhaust pipes inside the collector, additional effectiveness is gained at certain rpm levels.

The two companies which have the most experience with the collector header on the Honda 750 are Action 4's in Santa Ana, California and R.C. Engineering in Torrance. Both of these companies are active in competition at the dragstrip (against each other), and make a variety of custom exhausts for the 750. Action 4's newest collector header for the Four is a 180-degree tuned system which is just becoming available. Another recent entry into the Honda header market is Jardine Headers, well known for automotive competition exhausts.

In the non-collector field these same companies market make a variety of special exhaust systems for the Honda Four, drag pipes with and without megaphones, and street systems. Yoshimura Competition also offers racing headers with megs for road racing. These pipes tuck in under the engine for maximum cornering ability.

Next, in order of importance, is better internal breathing for the engine. If you add better carburetion and exhaust, probably the first thing that occurs to most builders is to install a better cam. This can be a losing battle in the unmodified Honda engine, because of the fact that the stock head suffers from restricted breathing. Most high performance cams rely on increased lift to get more air/fuel mixture into the cylinders, and this is something that the Honda engine can't make good use of until it has been modified. Our testing on the Honda head pointed out the fact that airflow through the intake reaches a peak at about the .300 lift point, and further increases in lift do not help. If you intend to install a hotter cam in the otherwise stock engine, get a cam which uses somewhat more duration and lifts to only about .350-inch. This is easier on the valve train, as forces increase dramatically with increased lift, and reliability will be increased.

Currently the best cam for competition seems to be the Kenny Harman F grind. This is an all out racing cam and several alterations to the engine, including cutting deeper valve pockets in the pistons are necessary with this cam. Action 4's offers this cam as part of their line and their custom racing pistons are clearanced to handle the extra lift.

If the head is ported and polished, lifts of .400 and above can be used. Valve shape on the Four is excellent and no modifications are necessary. In addition to opening and reshaping the intake port, the engine will gain considerable power by grinding away much of the shrouding around the spark plug tip in the combustion chamber. When finished, it gives the Honda a hemi-like look and really adds to the engine's horsepower. One word of advice that we should offer is don't do the job yourself unless you have quite a bit of experience in porting. This is one job that's best left to the shops that are equipped to handle it.

Increasing the displacement of the Honda is a sure route to more power. There are several kits on the market to enlarge the cylinders of the Four to as large as 915cc's! The popular sizes are 785cc, 811cc, and 836cc. These big bore kits are not too expensive and require only a minor amount of machining to install. Th two major suppliers of the big bore kits for the Honda 750 are Action 4's and Powroll, who supply all sizes and have a complete line of custom made and modified parts to equip the kits.

Several of the speed equipment suppliers are working on the problem of providing better rods for the 750 and we hear rumors that an entirely new forged rod may be available this year from a southern California designer. At the moment, Action 4's offers a carefully lightened and polished rod as part of their engine packages, and Russ Collins at R.C. Competition Engineering sells a heat treated and shot peened version.

Electrical systems for the Honda are limited to two magneto units, one by R.C. Competition, the other by Yoshimura. Later this year we expect the Joe Hunt Magneto for the 750 to become available. For most street applications, the stock ignition system works well, the magneto being necessary only for competition.

The Honda 750 represents a real challenge to the rest of the big engine field in motorcycle drag racing. It is tough, makes a lot of power for its size, and has the added advantage of having more speed equipment available for it than any other engine except the big Harleys. We've included a list of the major speed equipment suppliers for the Honda to assist you in getting the parts you need to turn your Honda Four into a real screamer.


Action 4's2621 S. Main StreetSanta Ana, California 92707
Yoshimura CompetitionP.O. Box 267Waterford, California 95836
Powroll PerformanceP.O. Box 926Bend, Oregon 97701
R.C. Competition Engineering2920 Sepulveda Blvd.Torrance, California 90505
Branch Flowmetrics1637 E. BurnettLong Beach, California
Hunt Magnetos2600 W. Vernon AvenueLos Angeles, California
Mikuni K. American Corp.7923 Gloria AvenueVan Nuys, California 91406
K-H Cams2163 S. Hathaway StreetSanta Ana, California 91705