This one is short, but important. When removing the clutch, you can use a pair of channel locks to keep the basket from rotating as you use the clutch nut tool to remove the nut. Same for reinstallation. Just use the sides of the jaws to resist the rotation by placing them against the flat bosses next to the springs and pressure plate posts. Clutch nut torque is 33 - 36 ft-lb. When removing or installing the pressure plate, be sure to tighten or loosen the 4 bolts evenly. The pressure plate breaks easily when this is not followed. I've only ever broken one... this one... out of many. But I'm usually careful. The proper torque for the pressure plate bolts is 6 - 7.5 ft-lb.
 |
| Removing clutch nut. |
 |
| Ensure that the pressure plate bolts are evenly loosened or tightened. When installing, make sure that the plate is moving down onto the clutch hub studs properly to avoid the bolt clamping down prematurely on the wrong surface and potentially leading you to snapping the pressure plate. |
All steels should have the sharp edge facing inward or at least in the same direction. I placed a v notch on each of the oiling holes in the clutch hub to aide with oil collection. This is a tip from Hondaman that I did on my heavily built 836 in Rock Flute and there was slightly noticeable difference in the smoothness of the clutch. Before doing this, the clutch was grabby and neutral was impossible to find. Cut the V groove so oil is funneled into the oiling holes. I.e. on the left side of the holes when looking at the bottom of the inner side of the clutch hub. The clutch rotates clockwise.
 |
| Clutch parts cleaned and inspected. Note the v grooves in the hub at the top left. Not the prettiest work, but it seems to help. |
No comments:
Post a Comment