Valve Adjustment Made Easy: The E.O.I.C. Method

The E.O.I.C method for valve tappet clearance can be used on almost any single cam engine. E.O.I.C. stands for Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing. Setting the cam in a position where the valve is closed and the rocker is completely loose is one of the critical steps in setting your valves properly.

To simply explain the premise of the E.O.I.C. method: When the exhaust valve just begins to open, the intake will be closed (on the back side of the cam lobe) and when the intake just begins to close, the exhaust valve will be closed (on the back side of the cam lobe).

In order to set your valve clearance properly, the engine must be completely cold. If the engine has run at all and is still slightly warm, the metal rockers and valves are larger due to thermal expansion. This causes the gap between the tappet and the valve stem surface to diminish. Thermal expansion is the reason there is a gap in the first place. This is why you will notice that a cam has street specifications and race specifications for setting valve tappet clearance. An engine used for racing will see higher temperatures, therefore, more expansion. This in turn requires a larger clearance. When you are running your engine on the street, you can keep the clearance tighter because of the lower heat in the engine. This allows the cam to open the valve as far as possible without keeping the valve from seating when the rocker comes back up to close the port.

To show you the step by step process to set your valves this way, I am going to set the valves on B.V., my old long bike. The engine is modified and I'm running a Yosh Daytona race cam. This cam calls for .004" for both intake and exhaust. Typically the intake clearance is smaller because this port actually runs cooler due to the cold intake charge moving through and cooling the surfaces. The exhaust port runs hot of course. A stock CB750 valve clearance is .002" intake and .003" exhaust.

To begin, you'll need some toolin'. For the CB750 you'll need a set of feeler gauges that go down to .002", a 10 mm wrench, a flathead screwdriver, and an 18 mm deep socket and ratchet. First remove the spark plugs so when you rotate the engine you're not fighting the compression. If your rings are toast you don't have to worry about this.

Next, you'll want to set the bike up so the rear wheel is off the ground and set the transmission in 5th gear. This is one method that allows you to roll the rear wheel to move the engine. Another method is to use a wrench on the advancer mechanism nut in the center of the points plate. I prefer to use the rear wheel method so as to not risk over stressing the advancer mechanism and breaking something. Another note, be sure you're wearing the proper attire. Steel toe flip flops are a must.

Remove the tappet covers. I usually start on the number one cylinder and work my way across. You can use any pattern you want, but I find it easiest to do one cylinder at a time. There are matching lobes on the cam so when you set one valve for clearancing, there is a valve on another cylinder that can be set as well. This is another method of setting the valves, but it can be combined with this method to speed things up.

To set the number one cylinder exhaust valve, watch the number one cylinder intake valve as you roll the rear wheel forward (or rotate the engine at the advancer mechanism). The intake valve will begin to move downward at some point (opening). When it reaches the bottom and begins to come back up, the exhaust valve is ready to be set. There is a bit of tolerance in the distance you can allow the valve to close, but you should remain within 1/32" of movement from the bottom (or from the top with respect to viewing the exhaust valve movement to prep the intake valve).

To move the engine, simply pull the tire in the driving direction. When you get to the point where the valve is near the proper position, you can roll the wheel backward and then forward again to check or refine the valve position. I have to use this method since I am running a Magneto and do not have any other way of moving the crank.

Now that the exhaust valve is ready to be set, take the feeler gauge that is appropriate for the clearance required. In my case, this is .004", but in the case of a stock engine it is .003". For valve clearance, .001" can change the performance of an engine significantly. In the picture below, the .004" feeler gauge slides under the tappet with minimal force.

When you push the feeler gauge between the tappet and the top of the valve stem, you will feel the gauge slip into a pocket before it slides under the tappet. This is because the tappet edge is filleted. Since the .004" feeler gauge fit, you want to check if the clearance is too large. Next, try to slide the .005" gauge under the tappet. You will feel it slide under the fillet, but if it fits under the tappet completely, the clearance is too big. In this case, it does not. The exhuast valve is set properly.

Next, prepare the intake valve for clearancing. Since I am using the rear tire method for movement, I need some way of seeing the exhaust valve. I use a mirror set on a stand and watch the rocker as I turn the tire. To prepare the intake valve, roll the engine forward and watch the exhaust valve until it begins to drop (open). Remember to only allow 1/32" of movement.

Grab your feeler gauge and check the clearance. The intake valve for this cam needs to be set at .004" so begin with this gauge. This one checks out at .004".

Move on to the .005" gauge. This time, the valve is too loose, because the .005" feeler gauge fits under the tappet.

To adjust the valve, place the 10 mm wrench over the nut and the flathead screwdriver into the tappet. Loosen the nut without moving the tappet position. Now gently turn the tappet clockwise to decrease the clearance (counter-clockwise to increase clearance if clearance was too small). Only a slight turn is necessary since you typically only need to change the clearance by a few thousandths of an inch. Once you have the tappet where you think it needs to be, hold that position with the screwdriver and tighten the nut. You do not have to lock down the nut incredibly tight, just snug.

Recheck your clearance and repeat the adjustment steps if you need to. This one is now set properly.

Recheck with the .004" and the .005" to ensure the .004" fits (to be sure it's not too tight) and the .005 does not.

Continue the procedure of E.O.I.C for the other three cylinders. If you have a low gas tank, you may need a 90 degree screwdriver to adjust your tappets.

When you press the feeler gauge into the clearance area between the tappet and the valve, be sure that you are not pushing very hard. It should only be snug. If you are pushing the feeler gauge in too hard, you will damage your gauge set and the tappet clearance will end up being too tight. Below is a gauge that has been damaged. The tappet has cut grooves into the metal. Some people bend the tips of their gauges so that they slip into the clearance area easier. If you do this, just make sure you push the gauge past the bend so you can test the clearance pressure (how snug it is) with the flat spot of the gauge.

Some marks on the feeler gauge can be expected, but this looks a lot better than the previous gauge.

Some gauge sets are made from softer metals. These gauges are going to be more suseptable to gouging so keep an eye on the condition of your gauges and don't force anything.

Here are the spec sheets from my cam. Notice the clearance difference between street use and racing use. This again is due to the added heat from racing. Also, larger, more aggressive cam profiles generally require more clearance than stock cams.

Setting your valves should take maybe 30 minutes max. When your clearances are set to spec, your top end will be quieter, throttle response quicker, torque and horsepower will be up and you'll be happier than a fat tick on a skinny dog. Set your clearances every 6 months or 3,000 miles.

When you're finished, put your tappet covers back on, and you might as well clean and check the gap on your plugs while you have them out with the feeler gauges in hand. Reassemble everything, and then treat yourself to a delicious international meal of turkey tacos, asparagus, and Japanese rice beer.

For a quick recap:

E.O.I.C.
Exhaust Opening: (<1/32")>

Intake Closing: (<1/32")>

Set valves when engine is cold.

Remove spark plugs.

Rotate engine using rear wheel in 5th gear or using advancer mechanism nut.

Confirm your clearances with your vehicle's manual.

Do not force feeler gauges into clearance area.

Finish with well balanced, international meal.

I'm Angry.

A man that we'll call Kyle. Wait, no that's too obvious. We'll call him Mr. Yarrington. Anyways. This guy sends me a message saying he needs his dads motorcycle back. He's a jerk and want's me to pick him up.


Good thing I'm a nice guy.

That is all.

New bike from one of my Granddads barns

It's a suzuki 500 two-stroke and it needs a lot of work. That's my granddad in his smallest tractor. He could do open heart surgery with that thing. Or better yet, light your cigarette.

Project Update: Out into the sunshine

I needed a different perspective. Sometimes it's hard to see where a design is going in a cramped and busy place like a garage. We slapped a wheel on the front and rolled it out to see what monstrosity we'd created. The front wheel will be a drum, but my main concern here was the overall look of the bike. With everything just hanging on and drooping about, it's still a bit abstract, but it gave me some ideas. So just ignore some of the asymmetry and the oddly long pipes. They're going to be cut, but I'm just not sure where yet (definitely before the tire ends though). Rolling it out definitely showed me the bars look goofy.

How To Inspect and Reassemble a Clutch Pack Assembly... The Right Way.

The following is a 'how to' from a mechanic with over 30 years of experience, including production road racing and drag racing. The basic premise of the method was introduced to him in an old manual. This method will maximize the performance of your clutch. It will reduce rattle, wear, slip, and increase lever control.

This is long but it's worth it.


Let me begin by saying that this will not only work for any Honda, but for other wet (or dry clutch) brand brand bikes you also own. This is pretty much universal as far as multi-clutch pack assembly goes. This is a generic clutch/friction assembly procedure, and does not entail all aspects of troubleshooting clutch drag, failures, lubrication assembly, torque specs, hard part inspections, etc.

Basically, this article points out "two special steps" for clutch assembly. I have included a minor plate inspection/assembly, and a clutch adjustment procedure. It is totally optional for those who would like to experiment.

I will open with the clutch adjustment, by stating that it will probably raise eyebrows in the way I set my final clutch lever, and adjuster throw-out screw positions. I used this same lever/ throw-out adjust system on my 1100GS BMW. I've heard about all the negative complaints about the BMW clutches not lasting. Believe me, I am not the nicest person when it comes to riding. It goes back in the barn soaking wet. The BMW clutch never slipped, never lost it's free-play at the lever, could carry the front wheel through most gears, and clocked 36K "hard" miles before it was sold. Not one problem ever occurred with the clutch system or had it's related parts fail, snap, break or ever replaced.

Not that I will tell you to do this on your bikes, but I used "Zero" free-play on my BMW, as well as all other clutch levers in my stable of bikes. There is literally nothing (1/16-1/8" freeplay) there. Once you pull on the clutch lever, the throw-out pin is pushing on the pressure plate right then and there. I also never pull the clutch in all the way to shift. I hardly move the C-lever upon foot selection. Neutral is the easiest click to find.

With that said, Here is how I have set up my clutch plates for all my race bikes, customer, and personal street bikes. Customer clutch lever freeplay were of course, set per book specs.


Steel Plates:

When the Manufacturer makes the steel plates from a raw sheet of metal, they stamp out these parts. You will notice a round edge, and a flat edge. One side you can easily cut yourself with. This is the part (cut edge) you want to look for. Some steel plates will have the special riveted (chatter) plate placed somewhere in the middle, or along somewhere in the pack assembly. Remember to note the cut edge of this plate assembly as well.

The steels have what's known as "Memory". Because of the stamping, the curve of the metal will be in one direction. To illustrate this, place your palms against each other and touch your fingers as if you were praying to your chosen Deity. Now press your fingers against each other. Notice how each finger fights the other. Now place the palm of your hand over the back of your hand. Press you fingers over your other fingers. Notice how they move in the same direction and not fight each other? This is the same example for the steel frictions. PLACE ALL STEELS IN ONE DIRECTION. This is the "first" of two keys to clutch assembly steps.

If you place the steel's cut-edge all in the same direction, they will not fight each other. In other words, one cut edge will not be facing the other against a friction, and the steel plate on the other side (of the friction) will not have to cause extra drag on the fiber plates as the pack is released. This is one of the reasons it is hard to find neutral. You have an ever so slight clutch drag of the bike. The touching load is moving the bike forward when you have the clutch lever pulled in all the way. It is somewhat of an exaggeration, but please understand the point...this is dragging the clutch pack in a subtle way.

Indiscriminately installing the clutches in any ol' direction, will give poor performance to the whole clutch pack assembly. This is not the main reason, but a contributing reason why clutches do not last long if installed incorrectly. There is a percentage loss to compression of the clutch assembly when a steel or friction is facing in the opposite direction, and not lined up in it's "Memory" facing assembly. The loss is slight, but insufficient clamping or holding. The steel in the wrong direction is forming a gap against the friction side of the other steel in the correct direction. To illustrate this...touch your finger tips again, and look at the gap between your palms. This is somewhat of a poor illustration on my part, but it is theory none the less, to show you how a steel plate reacts when placed opposite each other, as opposed to both in the same direction.


Friction Plates:

The single style spiral friction plate will be obvious as to their direction of assembly. This is the centrifugal pad cut direction, to fling off the oil between steel and frictions. Follow the friction "spiral pad cuts" for correct direction. Other frictions will have to be inspected for their stampings if the pad material is in the "square type design cuts". The aluminum plates (direction) might be harder to recognize. There are a few visuals to look for. Note the directional spiral plate and match the stamping this way with the other friction plates. Some will have a printed ink stamping on one side of the aluminum plate. Use this as your guide. Some aluminum frictions will have a cut edge to them. As long as the uniformity is consistent and in one direction, you have a better chance that the frictions will act in a consistent manor, than just throwing each friction in the (clutch outer) housing in any direction. Just look for consistency with each friction, and place them all (friction and steels) in the same direction.


Steel/Friction Plate Inspection:

If you feel that all the steels and frictions are lined up together and you still find there is drag or it's hard to find neutral, then most likely there is one or two warped steels or frictions causing the problem. Of course you can go by the book, place each steel on a flat surface and check warpage with a feeler gauge. This is one way of making sure you find a faulty steel plate. Another inspection, is to line up all the steels in it's memory direction (cuts all facing in one direction) and hold them all (on top of each other) in your hand in a stacked (static) formation. You simply turn the steels (all at once) and inspect for a gap between each other. If you find one, remove it. Then rotate the stack again to look for all the steels to lay flat on each other without any gaps between them. You will shuffle the stack repeatedly and make sure that a steel that was on the bottom, is now somewhere in the middle, as well as the top steel placed at a different levels.... and again, rotate the whole pack, looking for gaps. Once you have done this to just about every steel/friction plate being placed at all location levels, you can determine if they will be reusable. Discard those that cause a gap. Finally, check for the steel and friction (thickness) "serviceable limit" measurements, and are within specs.


Clutch Assembly Placement:

It is critical that the frictions and steels directions are facing the "Pressure Plate." Let's say you have another Metric bike that has the pressure plate being the last installed part into the clutch outer cage. Then if that is the case, all (cut) friction and steel plates... "FACE THE PRESSURE PLATE." This is the "second" key point of this article. If the pressure plate is the first part (like CBX-F's) to be installed inside the clutch outer, then all cut edges face (inward) to the pressure plate. So no matter what design you have, always face the... "steel/friction cut edges toward the pressure plate." As stated above, spiral style pads are placed in clutch assembly rotation. In other words, if the clutch spins counter-clockwise, then the spiral pads facing you is in the forward slash (/) position. Note how the spiral friction would rotate to fling the oil outside of it's groove. If the clutch pack rotates clockwise, then reverse the spiral pointing is in the back-slash (\) position.


Clutch cable/ throw-out adjustment:

Here is where the adjustment for some of you becomes scary. Run the thumb wheel and knurled end adjuster all the way in at the clutch lever housing, so no threads are showing. Go down to the end of the clutch cable and apply the same adjustment to the bolt and nut cable ends. Run the nut and adjuster up to the cable end and hide the threads. This should be where the cable is at it's loosest position.

Loosen the lock nut and turn the throw-out screw "in" until it lightly seats. Do not go any further but to touch the clutch lifter assembly. You know you are going in the right direction with the screw, if you watch or feel the lever arm begin to "move down" as you screw the adjuster screw in the correct direction. Turn the screw out 3/16ths to 1/4 turn if you are brave, or book spec if you rather feel safe in your mind. Lock the nut down, making sure the screw does not move as your set the nut.

Take up most all of the cable slack by lengthening the cable adjuster threaded end at the clutch lifter arm. Keep feeling the clutch lever until you feel the cable free-play being taken up at the hand lever. Once you can feel a 1/16th to an 1/8 inch of free-play at the lever/housing, lock down the nut on the bottom cable adjuster. Your final adjustment will be at the thumb wheel and knurled screw at the handle bar. If you feel you rather stay with the required lever gap from the factory manual, you may now make your final adjustment per book specs.

If you rather experiment with a tighter clutch lever, then run the knurled screw out to the point where there is no free-play. The lightest touch to the lever will not create a gap between the housing and lever pivot. This is an extreme setting, and may cause clutch slippage if not properly set. The text here might throw you off as to how it is to be adjusted. You will have to experiment to know the "feel" where it is safe to have a tight cable and not so tight, as to load the clutch push rod where it is about to be disengaged.


Conclusion:

Anyone who installed their clutch pack recently, and indiscriminately installed the steels without this basic installation process, my want to reevaluate the assembly. You may find you still have a hard time finding neutral after you install all new parts.

The way to install the steels (and frictions) described above, will help the longevity to the clutch pack, and give you some of the smoothest shifts, as if the bike was as new as the day you bought it. Finding neutral will also be one of the chief benefits to this clutch assembly/lever pull.

Remember to inspect the steels/frictions for warpage. No matter how well you followed directions and execution, one warped steel/friction will not "cut' it.

Wild, Sweet, Cool

Word.

Fixing Clutch Rattle

Another Late Night: Exhausting Work

Working on a set of "Scrambler" or high pipes for the dual sport, british looking, japanese thing I've been wounding myself with for the past month. I'll get some better pictures up eventually. For now, it's time for coffee!

Ohh and puns are phun!

New Product: The Broiler Exhaust System

We designed this exhaust for those long, cold winter rides. 1,400 F is enough to keep you nice and toasty at speed.

Speed Equipment: Taking a look at the Honda Four's Power Potential

Here is another vintage article from Richard Bean. I got this one from the SOHC4.net site and I do not know where the information originally derives from.

Mr. Beans words.

If the big Harley twins can be likened to the Chrysler engine which has dominated automobile drag racing for a decade, then the Honda 750 engine must represent the Chevy V8 of the motorcycle world. With its ability to rev clear out of sight and stay together, it cannot be overlooked as a potential winner in any form of competition. Its appeal as a street engine is as large as its hold over certain classes in both drag and road racing.

The purpose of this article is not to follow the step-by-step construction of any one engine, but to report on the state of the art and inform the engine builder as to what is available in the way of hop-up parts and techniques.

The basic engine is by itself a fine powerplant, capable of giving a good account of itself on the street. It develops considerable power and, for an engine that needs rpm to produce that power, is fairly tractable on the street even in heavy traffic. In its stock form the Honda 750 is able to turn the quarter mile in the high 12's which definitely puts it in the superbike category.

Several riders have written us complaining of the fact that the Honda is a pipey type of bike which comes on quickly at the upper limits of its rpm range, but we haven't found this to be the case. To be sure, the Honda engine doesn't develop much torque at low rpm's, like the Sportster or 74, but it is mostly a matter of getting used to holding the revs up. Another thing is that the engine exhibits very little flywheel effect and revs fall off quickly in between shifts. Again, this is a matter of getting used to the engine and carrying the shift point a little past the point of maximum torque.

For the rider who wants to get additional power out of the engine, two things are immediately apparent. One is that the stock carburetion isn't worth a damn for real high performance operation, the other is that the engine can really benefit from better exhaust.

The 28mm Keihin carb used on the stock Honda 750 is a good, reliable carburetor for a stock engine, but if internal changes are made to the engine to increase the power, the restricted airflow through the carb just about cancel out any gain. In the December issue of HOT BIKE, we ran a story about porting the head on the Honda 750. In the story we pointed out how flow bench testing showed that the stock Keihin restricted the airflow through the intake port to the point where installing a better cam or modifying the port would be almost useless. Honda Four owners are lucky, however, because there are a number of different carburetion setups which can solve the problem.

Probably the best from the standpoint of cost and ease of installation is the Mikuni. In addition to being a better flowing carburetor, the Mikuni offers a substantial number of jets, airbleed correctors, and other tuning parts to get maximum performance. The testing we did on the Honda head used four 32mm units and we feel they are about the right size for racing use, with the smaller 30mm size for street operation. Another good setup which we have seen on several bikes is the constant velocity carbs from the late Honda 450. These can often be found in wrecking yards and will do a good job. These are also a 32mm unit and need little modification to fit.

For the rider interested in maximum performance without worrying too much about the cost, Russ Collins at R.C. Competition Engineering has started production of a manifold which adapts a pair of DCOE -40 Webers to the 750. Russ also has a single Weber manifold for the Honda which is a log type in the works and we should be hearing more about it before too long. Jerry Magnuson, who designed one of the best manifolds on the market for the Weber to Sportster conversion is rumored to be working on a manifold for the Honda, so there is no scarcity of carburetion for the 750. For the all out racing effort, Yoshimura Competition in Waterford, California, sells matched sets of the 31mm GP carbs used on the Honda road racers, and Fuel Injection Engineering is putting the Hilborn injector designed for the Honda LSR bike (see page 52 of this issue), on the market for the drag racer.

Another place where the Honda has a lot going for it is in the area of exhaust systems. A number of manufacturers jumped on the bandwagon early in the game, and there are several good systems available over the counter. Because the Honda 750 is a four cylinder engine, a lot of hard earned design work done by the automotive exhaust system builders can be applied to the Honda in the form of collectors. Basically, the collector uses the pulse from an adjacent cylinder to lower the pressure in side the exhaust, creating a slight scavenging effect. By arranging the exhaust pipes inside the collector, additional effectiveness is gained at certain rpm levels.

The two companies which have the most experience with the collector header on the Honda 750 are Action 4's in Santa Ana, California and R.C. Engineering in Torrance. Both of these companies are active in competition at the dragstrip (against each other), and make a variety of custom exhausts for the 750. Action 4's newest collector header for the Four is a 180-degree tuned system which is just becoming available. Another recent entry into the Honda header market is Jardine Headers, well known for automotive competition exhausts.

In the non-collector field these same companies market make a variety of special exhaust systems for the Honda Four, drag pipes with and without megaphones, and street systems. Yoshimura Competition also offers racing headers with megs for road racing. These pipes tuck in under the engine for maximum cornering ability.

Next, in order of importance, is better internal breathing for the engine. If you add better carburetion and exhaust, probably the first thing that occurs to most builders is to install a better cam. This can be a losing battle in the unmodified Honda engine, because of the fact that the stock head suffers from restricted breathing. Most high performance cams rely on increased lift to get more air/fuel mixture into the cylinders, and this is something that the Honda engine can't make good use of until it has been modified. Our testing on the Honda head pointed out the fact that airflow through the intake reaches a peak at about the .300 lift point, and further increases in lift do not help. If you intend to install a hotter cam in the otherwise stock engine, get a cam which uses somewhat more duration and lifts to only about .350-inch. This is easier on the valve train, as forces increase dramatically with increased lift, and reliability will be increased.

Currently the best cam for competition seems to be the Kenny Harman F grind. This is an all out racing cam and several alterations to the engine, including cutting deeper valve pockets in the pistons are necessary with this cam. Action 4's offers this cam as part of their line and their custom racing pistons are clearanced to handle the extra lift.

If the head is ported and polished, lifts of .400 and above can be used. Valve shape on the Four is excellent and no modifications are necessary. In addition to opening and reshaping the intake port, the engine will gain considerable power by grinding away much of the shrouding around the spark plug tip in the combustion chamber. When finished, it gives the Honda a hemi-like look and really adds to the engine's horsepower. One word of advice that we should offer is don't do the job yourself unless you have quite a bit of experience in porting. This is one job that's best left to the shops that are equipped to handle it.

Increasing the displacement of the Honda is a sure route to more power. There are several kits on the market to enlarge the cylinders of the Four to as large as 915cc's! The popular sizes are 785cc, 811cc, and 836cc. These big bore kits are not too expensive and require only a minor amount of machining to install. Th two major suppliers of the big bore kits for the Honda 750 are Action 4's and Powroll, who supply all sizes and have a complete line of custom made and modified parts to equip the kits.

Several of the speed equipment suppliers are working on the problem of providing better rods for the 750 and we hear rumors that an entirely new forged rod may be available this year from a southern California designer. At the moment, Action 4's offers a carefully lightened and polished rod as part of their engine packages, and Russ Collins at R.C. Competition Engineering sells a heat treated and shot peened version.

Electrical systems for the Honda are limited to two magneto units, one by R.C. Competition, the other by Yoshimura. Later this year we expect the Joe Hunt Magneto for the 750 to become available. For most street applications, the stock ignition system works well, the magneto being necessary only for competition.

The Honda 750 represents a real challenge to the rest of the big engine field in motorcycle drag racing. It is tough, makes a lot of power for its size, and has the added advantage of having more speed equipment available for it than any other engine except the big Harleys. We've included a list of the major speed equipment suppliers for the Honda to assist you in getting the parts you need to turn your Honda Four into a real screamer.

Action 4's	2621 S. Main Street	Santa Ana, California 92707
Yoshimura Competition	P.O. Box 267	Waterford, California 95836
Powroll Performance	P.O. Box 926	Bend, Oregon 97701
R.C. Competition Engineering	2920 Sepulveda Blvd.	Torrance, California 90505
Branch Flowmetrics	1637 E. Burnett	Long Beach, California
Hunt Magnetos	2600 W. Vernon Avenue	Los Angeles, California
Mikuni K. American Corp.	7923 Gloria Avenue	Van Nuys, California 91406
K-H Cams	2163 S. Hathaway Street	Santa Ana, California 91705

"The Norton Project" - A Heartwarming Tale of Theft

Two brothers steal, restore, and give back their Dad's Norton. An awesome video. Watch it all the way through, it's totally worth it.