Friday, May 28, 2021

Survivor Chop: Tune-up

 When this bike arrived, it needed a little bit of everything, including tuning.  It arrived with 150 mains, which are huge for a stock engine.  After some trial and error, seat-of-the-pants tuning, and a little cheating with an AFR meter (that never read correctly because of air leaks in the exhaust), I arrived at 130 mains, #3 clip position on the needles, 40 pilots, and 1.75 turns on the air screw.  Floats were set and all carbs were synchronized.  The ignition was set statically and the points were gapped according to the shop manual. This made the bike run relatively smoothly, with good throttle response through all positions except a stumble around 3/4 throttle.  It did not like any quick crack of the throttle. The bike would never start cold on the kick starter and required several rotations of the engine to begin roughly idling for a moment.  Idle at full operating temperature was also a bit rough for my liking.  For the time, it was sufficient to move on to other work.

After the trip to Gettysburg, I decided I wanted to see what I could improve in the tuning.  While it started and ran ok, it was certainly not a cold kickstart bike, the idle seemed choppy, and its mannerisms did not exude confidence or reliability. Honestly though, most CB750 chops I see running around seem to be about the same, but I know they could be better.  I guess it just depends on the performance you're willing to accept.

Ignition Precision (actually, accuracy, but that didn't sound as good)

In the past, I've always set my points gap with a feeler gauge and set the timing statically.  I rarely yanked out the timing light to check operational timing and full advance.  This was good enough, but clearly there are more accurate ways of achieving the proper settings.  I was curious how much there was to gain from setting dwell time instead of gap and setting timing dynamically.  Spoiler:  setting dwell time instead of the gap on the points made the biggest difference, but using the timing light to ensure your mechanical advance is operating properly is a good idea.

Setting the dwell time (or dwell angle) on the points is much easier (IMO) and more accurate than using a feeler gauge to set the gap on used points.  Used points have pits all over the surface and this affects the true break point of the electrical connection.  You may set your gap properly, but the points actually electrically short at a different time than is expected based on the gap you set.  Setting the dwell angle directly sets the time that the points are in electrical contact and the time that the coils will charge.

To set the dwell angle on the CB750, which has a set of points for each pair of cylinders (1/4, 2/3), you must set your dwell meter to 8 cylinder.  It is a wasted spark system with 2 sets of points, so you cant use the 4 cylinder setting. The 4 cylinder setting on dwell meters is based on a single points set and no wasted spark.  Connect your leads to each side of the points so that it measures across the points.  Start the engine and set idle around 850-900 rpm. When I checked the dwell on the Waffle, it measured 19 degrees with the points freshly set with my feeler gauges.  The proper dwell angle should be 24 degrees.  This means that my coils were charging for 20% less time than they should.  I adjusted the points until I achieved a dwell angle of 24 degrees and then set the timing back to factory specs.


The timing was set using a timing light, then checked statically to see how much of a difference there was between the methods.  The difference between static timing and using the timing light was negligible, but I preferred using the timing light.  While I had the light hooked up, I spun the engine up in rpm and verified a smooth advance that ended between the two hash marks on the advancer.  Base timing, advance, and dwell were all now within spec.

With the ignition system set properly, the bike idled a lot smoother, both at operating temp and cold start.  While riding, the throttle response seemed more crisp as well.  Cold start was still about the same.  Meaning that the bike did not want to kickstart cold, but would fire up on the starter after several rotations. Overall, it seemed to start easier, but it still wasn't a kicker.  On top of that, the stumble at 3/4 throttle was still present

It looks like I'll be doing a few things differently from now on. This includes how I set float height, which I discuss below.  Improvements were made by setting the ignition system via dwell angle and a timing light, but I still suspected fueling issues.  

Float Height Quandary 

I felt that my main jet was sized properly and any change in the needle clip position from #3 resulted in a worsening of the throttle characteristics in other areas where it was previously good.  At #3 on the needle clip, the bike still exhibited what seemed to be fuel starving around 3/4 throttle.  

While doing some research on float heights for these carbs (Keihin 046A), I noticed a discrepancy in where the height was measured from.  The shop manual isn't explicit on where to measure the height from.  Some guru's online say to measure 26 mm from the lower level of the flange on the carb body while others say to measure from the gasket surface of the body.  I also found a wet fuel height, which at some point must have been determined by some racers back in the day because Honda never specified a wet fuel height. 

Lower flange on carb body (picture rights: Hondachopper.com)

The wet fuel height is measured using what some call "the clear tube method." This method simply uses a clear tube connected to the drain of the float bowl and routed up against the body so that the opening of the tube is above the float bowl gasket surface.  This allows you to see the height of the fuel in the bowl.  The ideal height is claimed to be 3-4 mm from the gasket surface.

When I originally set the float height on the Waffle's (the blue survivor chop) carbs, I set it based on the lower flange on the side of the float bowl gasket surface. This is about 2 mm further down than the gasket surface. Measuring the wet fuel height using "the clear tube method," the fuel height was around 6 to 7 mm from the gasket surface.  This is when I began to really question the reference point for float height. If the ideal fuel level is 3-4 mm from the gasket surface, it seems that the 26 mm measurement should be made from the gasket surface.

So that's what I did.  I reset the float heights based on the boss that's centered on the gasket surface to a measurement of 25.7 mm.  This increased my fuel height by a few millimeters, thereby wetting more of the emulsion tube.  Below is a picture of the wet fuel height after setting the floats at 25.7 mm from the gasket surface instead of the lower flange area.  The wet fuel height is about 3 mm from the gasket surface.


Before I made this change, I verified that the carburetors were synchronized and the ignition system was set as described above.  The carburetor's vacuum was even across all 4 and I made no other adjustments other than increasing the float height to achieve a wet fuel height of 3-4 mm from the gasket surface.

The results were surprising.  The bike now kickstarts on the first kick, even when the engine is cold.  Drop the choke immediately and it idles well (with the engine cold, idle rpms were low, but it doesn't stall).  Throttle response seems a little sluggish just off idle when the engine is cold and this is likely because of the fuel dropping out of suspension while the engine and intake tract are not up to operating temperature. This is very minor though.  The rest of the throttle range improved and the stumble at 3/4 throttle is gone.  The entire throttle range is excellent and feels fully tuned.  It has great manners at cruising position and it accelerates smoothly when the throttle is rolled open quickly.

What did I learn?  I will be setting my float height at ~26 mm from the gasket surface from now on and verifying that the wet fuel height is 3-4 mm from the gasket surface.  I will also be setting the dwell angle and using a timing light to set timing at base time and full advance. John is currently tuning up his Amen Savior chopper and will be doing the same.  Hopefully I get a good report from him because his bike had similar cold start manners as the Waffle.

Final Carburetor specs for the Waffle:

Stock engine with breadbox air filter and 4-4 drag pipes

Altitude: Sea Level

Main: 130

Pilot: 40

Needle Clip Position: #3

Air Screw: 1.5

Float height: 25.7 mm from the gasket surface (not the lower flange on the side)


Other useful notes:

- When setting your float height, ensure that the float tang is just barely touching the float needle.  I set my float height with the carbs turned sideways.  This way, I can set my calipers to the desired height and push the floats in so the tang contacts the float needle.  I can vary the pressure to verify that the contact is present, but not compressing the spring.

- The float needle spring should compress completely under the weight of the floats when the carbs are held upside down.  If this is not the case (which can occur if aftermarket float needles are used), you may need to set your float height a few millimeters higher to achieve the wet fuel height of 3-4 mm.

- In the event that you need to swap points or an entire points plate roadside, some spare wire and a lightbulb can be useful for setting your timing.  You can carry wire and rob a lightbulb from your bike temporarily or carry a couple LED's with integrated resistors  spec-ed for 12 volts in your tool bag.  I purchased 20- 3mm LED's with integrated resistors for this purpose.  Simply disconnect the blue or yellow ground wire from the points and the capacitor, clamp the short lead of the LED to the point under the nut and run a wire from the battery positive to the long lead on the LED.  Now you can set your points based on when the light turns off.  Below is a picture to help clarify this procedure.



Survivor Chop: Repairs and upgrades everywhere

 



After a weekend trip to Gettysburg with a couple friends, I found a few things on this bike that could use some love.  On top of that, some of the equipment is just old and could use replacement so I don't have to deal with issues roadside.  This includes some electrical repairs, exhaust repairs, new oil and vent lines, new wheel bearings, new front rotor, and a tighter rear suspension. 

The last one in the list above was a bit of a surprise to me after I loaded the bike up with my gear for the weekend.  I went over a bridge and heard a screeching sound like the wheel locking up.  It turns out that the rear wheel was rubbing the fender... a lot.  To remedy this, I asked John to whip up some spacers out of scrap to preload the rear springs a bit more. I measured the spring rate to be about 185 lbs/in, so we went with 1/4" spacers to add about 90 lbs more preload (46.25 lbs on each side).  This helped quite a bit, but it still rubs slightly over heavy bumps.






I slapped some black paint on the underside of the fender to cover the raw metal from the tire rubbing over the years.  This also gives the tire a fresh canvas to scuff up later.  Overall, the bike rides about the same, but the tire scuffing is only slight.  John made up a second set of spacers to add which are 1/8".  I may add those and see if I can avoid tire contact with the fender altogether.


I hope to use this bike as my touring ride for a long time to come.  With that in mind, I want it to be as reliable as possible.  And while the original regulator and rectifier on the CB750's is quite reliable, it is already 49 years old.  So out with the old and in with the new.  A new regulator rectifier combo from Rick's Motorsports (model 27-10100).  This reg/rect combo is plug and play with the factory wiring harness, which surprisingly, this chop has.  Removing the old parts and installing the new combo unit was a huge pain only because the main wiring fixture from the original CB750 was mounted under the oil tank, making it impossible to remove the original regulator and rectifier without removing the rear fender.  This was one big reason why I did this upgrade. I would not have been able to replace the original parts roadside.






I also replaced the glass tube fuse holder with a more modern blade type fuse.  While this bike retains the factory harness, someone consolidated the fuses to just a single 20 amp fuse.  I would prefer separate fuses, but I've owned and built many bikes with just one main fuse without any trouble.

The exhaust repairs included replacing the no. 10 bolts on the exhaust sleeves at the tube joint near the footpegs with 1/4-20 bolts.  The right side exhaust came loose while up in Gettysburg and I had to use bailing wire to strap it to the frame.  I don't like the fact that the sleeves are a tad small and simply black pipe, but they will work for now. I also sealed some leaks at the spigots with aluminum borrowed from an Arizona Green Tea can.  Nothing but the finest material.



The new oil and vent lines were brought to you by Home Depot.  Reinforced clear vinyl tube for the oil lines and clear non-reinforced vinyl tube for the vent lines.  I like that the oil flow is visible.  This material gets soft as the are heated, so be sure to use reinforced tube for the oil lines.  



I have run many bikes on the original wheel bearings for years without noticing any issues, until I actually replaced a full set on a bike.  The ride was significantly smoother and handling in corners was notably better.  The bearings on this bike had their time in the spotlight and exhibited some rough spots. And while I would have just run these in the past (and did for a while this past year), bearings are cheap, replacing them is good insurance, and the difference is quite noticeable.  

The bearings for the hallcraft front hub were conversion bearings to adapt the wheel to the 5/8" axle.  The part number from NSK is 6203-625VVC3.  Simply drive the old ones out carefully with a punch, clean all the surfaces, inspect the inner sleeve for damage, and install the new bearings.  Be sure not to compress the bearings in so tight that they bind from compressing the inner sleeve.  Press the bearings in until the inner sleeve is in contact with the inner race of each bearing, but both bearings spin easily.  This goes for the rear hub too.




While doing the bearings, I cleaned and polished everything along the way.  It's easy to get to those small spots now, and not so much later.  

The rear wheel has three bearings, two in the hub, and one in the sprocket carrier.  All Balls sells a great kit that I have used many times.  The part number is 25-1362 for the CB750 rear wheel.  It comes with all three bearings and a new shaft seal for the sprocket carrier.  This shaft seal was important for the factory bearings, which were not sealed.  However, the All Balls kit comes with sealed bearings.  

The sprocket carrier has a bearing retainer on it.  When I cant find my retainer tool, I just use a set of hex keys or punches that are close to the diameter of the holes and rotate them with a pry bar.  To prevent the aluminum threads from galling, clean the retainer and spray the threads with penetrant.  Leave the sprocket carrier in the wheel while working on the retainer as it will help hold the piece steady.


Once the retainer is removed, drive the bearing out from the other side and remove the shaft seal.  Clean all the surfaces and install the new bearing and shaft seal.  When installing the new bearing, you can use the old bearing as an intermediate surface to bash on.  It's the same size as the new bearing and will distribute the force evenly. One other tip: If the shaft seal is being a pain to remove, heat the retainer with a torch and melt/soften the rubber shaft seal.  It will pull out easily.




The rear hub also has a bearing retainer and I use a similar method as above.  Instead of hex keys though, I use flathead screwdrivers to engage more of the surface of the retainer. Use penetrant to minimize/prevent thread galling.


Drive the bearings out from each side, clean, and replace.  Once again, the old bearings can be used to assist with seating the new bearings.  And once again, make sure to inspect the bearing sleeve that rests between the hub bearings and ensure that it is in contact with the inner races of the bearings and the bearings spin freely.  Reinstall the bearing retainer and you're all done.  This is also a good time to inspect your kush drive rubbers, your rear brake shoes, and your brake liner.  Ohh and clean/polish everything!  One more pro tip:  Matching the bearing seal color to the bike adds 20 horsepower at the wheel. Luckily, the All Balls kit is blue!

Last on the list for this post is the front rotor. The original one was heavily pitted.  They were made by Hurst-Airheart, now known as Airheart Brakes.  You can purchase a rotor that's similar in dimension, but will need some modification to mount to the Hallcraft hub.  The part number for this replacement is 3301-1003 (7.75" diameter, 0.119" thickness, 3.50" bolt circle diameter, 0.194" bolt hole diameter).  The bolt holes need to be counter-sinked and opened up to accept the 1/4-28 bolts that the Hallcraft hub uses.

I didn't purchase a new one and go down the route of modifying it to work because I had a few of these rotors sitting around.  I checked the potential replacement for warping, pitting, and thickness.  Then cleaned, sanded, and painted it to make it look purdy.  I installed with the original bolts because they were in good shape and used blue loctite.




So that wraps up a good bit of work to get this bike, that my friends have named "Blue Waffle", in top shape.  Better electrics, newer bearings, fresher brakes, new lines, tighter suspension.  After this, I'm going to spend some time tweaking the tuning a bit.  I feel that there's plenty of room to improve this bike's performance and reliability.  So next we'll take a look back at the carburetors and the ignition.









Monday, April 5, 2021

Survivor Chop: Rear Suspension Repair

I've had this bike out on the road for a while now, and after some tuning, it's been great.  While doing a normal eyeball inspection, I noticed that the lower bushing on the left side axle plate was coming out.  Trailing plunger suspensions typically use an upper and lower bushing in the axle plate to slide along the suspension shaft.  These are most often either pressed in or held in by a circlip.  

Typical aftermarket trailing plunger configuration.

Notice at the bottom of the spring, the bushing is visible. It should be up in the axle plate.

To disassemble the suspension, begin by lifting the rear of the bike off the ground, removing rear tire, and disconnecting anything that is connected to the axle plates, such as a chain guard. Next, clean the lower nut underneath of the assembly and inspect for a grub screw or other retaining device.  If any retaining device is present, remove it from the nut.  Loosen the nut a little and you'll notice that the chrome cup at the top should begin to lift up off of the frame's spring housing.  

Next, use a C-clamp or a valve spring compressor to keep the assembly compressed and remove the lower nut.  Use a rag on the contact surfaces of the clamp or compressor to prevent damaging the paint or the chrome. Once the nut is removed, slowly and carefully loosen the clamp to relieve pressure on the spring assembly.  The spring assembly will expand about an inch or so before reaching it's free length.

Valve spring compressor positioned so the lower nut can be removed.

Yank all the pieces out while noting how they were installed.  I disassembled both sides to inspect and grease.  The lower bushing on the left side axle plate had almost completely fallen out.  It should have been pressed in as there is no groove for a circlip.

Lower bushing as it was removed from the bike.

The lower axle plate bushing was only in about 0.125 in.

The original bushings were Bunting P77-8 (specs TBD).  The inner bore was very clean and showed little signs of wear.  It seems as though the outer diameter just didn't fit snug with the inner diameter of the axle plate's bore.  Since the bushing is in good shape, I decided to use a punch and place a series of indentions around the outer surface.  Before doing this, the bushing was somewhat snug in the axle plate, but not much of a press fit.  After adding the indentions, the bushing pressed in with a reasonable amount of force.  

New indentions added with a punch to increase the interference for the press fit.

With the repair made to the bushing, I inspected the rest of the suspension parts.  The shafts on both sides showed scoring, but it had already been filed down smooth.  The scoring did not correspond to any marks on the existing bushings and there were fine file marks on both shafts. This leads me to believe that somewhere along the 50 year timeline of this bike's existence, someone else had already rebuilt the rear suspension.

The last step before reinstalling is to clean, polish, and lubricate everything.  This was the only part of the bike I was unable to fully clean and polish when I first began cleaning it up, so I wasn't going to slack in this area.  I degreased all the bits, then used steel wool (0000) with light oil on the more heavily corroded parts and Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream for the last round on everything.  Once everything shined as much as it could, I lubricated the sliding parts with some fitting grease and checked for any issues with travel.  

Inspected, repaired, cleaned, polished, and lubricated.

To reassemble, stack the short spring, then the axle plate, then the tall spring into the frame spring housing.  Slide the suspension shaft through the middle of the stack and compress with your C-clamp or valve spring compressor.  Reinstall the lower nut and retaining hardware (mine had a grub screw to which I added a dab of thread locker).  Add grease to the assembly through the zerk fitting.  Put the rest of the bike back together and check for proper function under the bike's full weight.

After a test ride, I noticed no difference at all... which is what I hoped for.  If I had waited until the bushing had completely fallen out, I might have noticed some vibration or worse.  Without the lower bushing, the rear wheel might rotate sideways slightly, causing the chain to jump the sprocket which could result in the addition of a lovely bay window in my engine cases.


Sunday, March 14, 2021

Survivor Chop: Gauge and dash plate install

I was told that this old blue chop used to have stock gauges, but when it arrived here, it had nothing.  It was however dropped off with a mini speedo, so I snagged a matching mini tach and modified a few brackets to mount them to the top of the risers using one of the top clamp bolts.  It was difficult to find a good, clean location for these, but I think the final location looks very tidy and doesn't add a lot of bulk to the look of the chop.  Sometimes a chop can look pretty cluttered when they have all of the gauges and wiring intact.

The front wheel is a stock CB750 wheel, so it uses a stock speedo drive.  John had a custom length speedo cable made that worked perfectly.  I needed a custom tach cable as well, but it was so close to stock lengths, that I looked for an oem part that would work.  I found that the VT500C cable, motion pro PN 02-0110, was almost perfect.  I would prefer that it was a little longer, but it's so close to being right... and at a great price compared to a custom cable.

Modified mounts for the speedo and tach.

Gauges installed.

The wires were not covered under the light cluster when the bike arrived.  Before John picked it up, the previous owner had cut all the wiring for the handlebar controls in an attempt to put ape hangers on.  they were poorly spliced and I'm guessing this is the point in time when this cover went missing.  I cleaned up all the wiring and organized it in the housing.  I made a new cover out of 0.6 mm thick mirror polished 304 stainless steel plate.

Shiny plate, pretty face.

Survivor Chop: Front Brake Setup

Brake work was completed back in June of 2020, just before my second left ulnar nerve surgery.  I had some brake lines made up at Colliflower and purchased a radial master cylinder with a remote reservoir.  The master cylinder was from a Beull, part number H0507.1B7.  I used a radial master cylinder with a remote reservoir because a standard linear master cylinder with integrated reservoir was too big to fit on the 6 bend bars.  After rigging up a remote reservoir and awkwardly bleeding the system, it worked very well.  

A rough picture of the master cylinder during mockup.  Notice the limited space on the bars.  Here, I was trying to mount the reservoir on the top of the bar, but I ended up making a tab and mounting it to the frame of the master cylinder.

Finished reservoir setup.


This bike has the complete stock wiring harness with all the lights, bells, and whistles.  This includes the handlebar controls.  They take up quite a bit of room on 6 bends, where real estate is at a minimum.

Awkwardly bleeding the system with the new reservoir mounted.

The pressure switch for the brake lights was incredibly tricky to mount, but I eventually fought it into submission.  It did not make bleeding the system easy.  Honestly, for a relatively simple system, this one took quite a while to bleed.

Caliper hanging out while trying to get all the air up to the m/c.  I ran a 90* into the caliper so the brake line looked cleaner.

The caliper is a Hurst Airhart setup, which only gives you a little more braking power than a hill holder.  It's good enough to slow you down a little in the curves, but wont help much in an emergency stop.  It fits well with the vintage look of the bike, so it had to stay.  I cant say that for the radial m/c, but it's the only thing that seemed to work.

I had to replace the caliper bolts and the brake stay as well.  These were simple fixes.


Survivor Chop: Clutch Repair

This one is short, but important.  When removing the clutch, you can use a pair of channel locks to keep the basket from rotating as you use the clutch nut tool to remove the nut.  Same for reinstallation. Just use the sides of the jaws to resist the rotation by placing them against the flat bosses next to the springs and pressure plate posts. Clutch nut torque is 33 - 36 ft-lb.  When removing or installing the pressure plate, be sure to tighten or loosen the 4 bolts evenly.  The pressure plate breaks easily when this is not followed.  I've only ever broken one... this one... out of many.  But I'm usually careful.  The proper torque for the pressure plate bolts is 6 - 7.5 ft-lb.

Removing clutch nut.

Ensure that the pressure plate bolts are evenly loosened or tightened.  When installing, make sure that the plate is moving down onto the clutch hub studs properly to avoid the bolt clamping down prematurely on the wrong surface and potentially leading you to snapping the pressure plate.



All steels should have the sharp edge facing inward or at least in the same direction.  I placed a v notch on each of the oiling holes in the clutch hub to aide with oil collection.  This is a tip from Hondaman that I did on my heavily built 836 in Rock Flute and there was slightly noticeable difference in the smoothness of the clutch.  Before doing this, the clutch was grabby and neutral was impossible to find. Cut the V groove so oil is funneled into the oiling holes.  I.e. on the left side of the holes when looking at the bottom of the inner side of the clutch hub.  The clutch rotates clockwise.

Clutch parts cleaned and inspected.  Note the v grooves in the hub at the top left. Not the prettiest work, but it seems to help.


Survivor Chop: Clean and Polish

This topic isn't exactly the most exciting, but it's very rewarding.  When this bike showed up, it was dirty, the chrome was pitted and flaking, and the paint looked dull.  It looked a lot better in pictures than in reality.  

Time to get to work, pulling it apart, scrubbing, polishing, waxing, and blistering.  For this, I'll be using, blue magic metal polish, Collonite 845 insulator wax, 0000 steel wool, microfiber cloths, plastic brushes, degreaser, carb cleaner, soap, and water.  I made a deal with a polisher to get a full set of engine covers polished in exchange for some spare covers for him to polish and sell.  It worked out great because, well, I hate polishing and have quite a few spare engine covers.

One thing to note that is very important.  If you have your engine covers polished, be sure to wash them thoroughly to remove any remaining rouge before putting them on your engine.  Rouge is abrasive and while it may seem insignificant, you don't want chunks of this stuff floating around in your oil.  also, while the covers are off, this is the best time to put a good coat of sealing wax on.  Enter Collonite 845.

This work was done quite a few months ago, but I haven't been able to keep up on the blog.  I was in between a surgeries to fix damaged nerves in my arms, so my Dad was helping out quite a bit.  And he continues to do so.   We basically scrubbed and polished everything we could. While tearing the bike down for cleaning, we inspected everything to ensure it was in good order, greased the greasy parts, and replaced all gaskets.  The rear wheel turned out surprisingly good, considering it's perceived condition when it arrived.  My Dad is obsessed with doing great work, and it shows.

Dad working on the rear wheel.

Bolting the sprocket to the carrier.

Piles of parts.

The pipes cleaned up nicely even though they still have some sort of acid drip markings on them.

Scrubbing every tiny bit.

Polished engine covers.

In the picture above, notice that the stator cover it dressed up with some black paint for accent.  This is a relatively simple job and I think it looks great.  Just roughly mask off the stator cover except the outer ring and the Honda logo, spray black and let dry to touch.  Once the paint is dry to touch, remove the tape and gently wipe away the paint on the side of the outer ring and the lettering with a solvent, leaving the background black.  I follow this by carefully polishing the exposed aluminum to minimize oxidation.

Unmasked and painted stator cover before wiping off the excess paint with solvent.

While removing excess paint, you may accidentally remove paint from the background.  Just dab a little paint on the bare spot to fill it back in.  Oops.

Finished product.

Once everything is cleaned, polished, greased, etc. it's time to throw it all back together.  I bought a stainless steel bolt kit for the engine and polished all of the heads.  When using stainless bolts on an aluminum block, consider using a dab of antiseize.  The contact between stainless steel and aluminum causes galvanic corrosion and can cause the bolts to bind up and make removing them in one piece difficult or impossible.  Its a little more work up front, but it's good insurance.  A little dab will do ya.

Polish, polish, polish.

Polish, polish, polish.

ANTISEIZE people!!!  I hate snapping these bolts off.  Also, 5 ft-lb of torque is the spec for most of the engine bolts.  You might need a little more to help it seal on worn surfaces, but be careful.  The antiseize will also help you get more torque without binding up the threads.

Here's a little before and after of the paint and polish process.

Before.

After.

More after.  So pretty.

Ok, one more.

I installed a few parts that John had given me, including that super shiny bread box air cleaner.  Thanks John!

It runs and rides now, but still needs more work.

Out for a little celebratory ride with my homey.

Now, onto more work. I still need to replace the front brake line and master cylinder, tune the carbs (they're way out...150s are a no-no for a stocker), make a plate cover for the instrument light cluster, etc. etc. etc.